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Buona Befana

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Every year on January 6th, Epiphany is celebrated in Italy.  It is a Christian holiday to remember and celebrate the visit of the Three Wise Men to the baby Jesus.  Just as the Western culture celebrates Santa Claus delivering presents to children on Christmas Eve during the same time the birth of Jesus is celebrated, Italians celebrate La Befana during the time of Epiphany.  La Befana is an old woman, a witch like figure, who flies on a broomstick and leaves presents in children’s socks or stockings on the eve of Epiphany.  She leaves candy, fruit and other small presents for children who have been good, and a lump of coal (carbone), onions or garlic for children who have been bad.

La Befana … Seems a little scary to me, but the Italian children seem to embrace her.  


Each year a market is held in Piazza Navona and is centered around the tales and traditions of La Befana.  It is mainly a children’s market as the piazza is transformed into a child’s paradise.  The stalls or booths that line the piazza are filled with candies, toys, balloons, stockings, tree ornaments and Befana dolls and decorations.  There is also a large carousel in the center of the piazza for the children to ride.  Throughout the month of December, and especially after the New Year holiday, it seems all the families and young children of Rome flock to Piazza Navona to celebrate the coming of La Befana.  

La Befana stockings to be filled on the Eve of Epiphany

Candy, candy, candy galore … treats to fill the stockings of good little boys and girls.  

Candy lumps of coal (carbone in Italian) for the children who behaved badly.  

Marzipan (marzapane in Italian) is a sweet treat primarily made of sugar and almond meal.  It is a traditional holiday treat in Italy.  

A market tradition is to choose a new ornament for the Christmas tree.  
In addition to all the candy, toys and trinkets for sale, you can also return to your childhood with a stick of cotton candy or a ciambella (a really large doughnut) to snack on as you stroll around the market.  And if you really want to be naughty, you can also choose to have Nutella spread in the center of your ciambella.  Yummm!
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La Dolce Vita Series: Chocolate Festival

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 I’ve mentioned several times before how much I love chocolate, so you can imagine how excited I was when I happened upon a chocolate festival in Trastevere last week.  It’s an understatement to say I was like a kid in a candy store.  I was ‘ooohing’ and ‘ahhhing’ as I walked along and visited each booth.  I wanted to sample one of everything.  Of course I couldn’t, but I loved seeing all the different chocolate items.  I bought several different kinds of truffles to sample, and they were so delicious!  My favorite was a truffle filled with Nutella (a chocolate and hazelnut cream).
 
 
I have included photos of the chocolate goodies from the festival below.  I took so many photos of all the yummy chocolate items, it was hard for me to decide which ones to share, so I’ve included a few extra.  Hope you enjoy! J
 

A combination of two of my favorite things … chocolate and shoes.  So much goodness, what is a girl to do?! J

Piazza Treasures: Round Quattro

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I always come across different street performers each time I visit a piazza or stroll along the streets of the city.  The entertainment is endless in Rome.  It always brightens my day when I come across someone showcasing their talents or doing something ‘out of the norm’.  It’s one of the great things about living in Rome (it’s always the little things :-).

These guys were playing some of the classics by Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in Piazza Navona.  I love this type of music, and it always reminds me of my grandmother back home in Alabama.    
This steel cowboy was also hanging out in Piazza Navona. He’s trying to look serious, but he makes me laugh.  

I passed this small group performing near the Coliseum, and had to stop for awhile to listen.  I loved this music!  All the different instruments are fascinating too.  Click on the video directly below to hear a sample of their music.

 

The Local Bar (aka Coffee Shop)

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Italy is known for its coffee.  The recognition and reputation is indeed due because most of the coffee I’ve had here really is great.  At around €1 for a cup, it’s also quite affordable.  Not to mention, I sometimes luck up and receive a little something extra with my morning coffee, which is a perfect start to the day. (You can read about the little something extra here.)  The only thing I find lacking with the coffee in Italy is the culture.

The coffee culture in the U.S. is to sit down, take your time, sip your coffee, relax, visit with friends and take a little break.  Sometimes you are even encouraged to bring your computer and do a little work while you drink your coffee with the availability of free Wi-Fi.  This has always been my experience with Starbucks and the other coffee shops I’ve visited.  This is not the case with bars in Italy (bars = name for coffee shops).


The norm in Italy is for you to drink your coffee and eat your cornetto (morning pastry) while standing at the bar.  Seats are rare, and if they are available, in many cases you will be charged extra (almost double) for service while seated.  In a country that concerns itself with a slower paced lifestyle, spending time with family and friends and savoring multiple course meals over the span of several hours, the coffee culture is surprisingly fast paced and rushed.  Normally, you’re in and out and have had your breakfast or afternoon pick-me-up in a matter of a few short minutes.


That is why I was delighted to find a bar that encouraged you to sit down, relax and stay awhile.  The first time we visited Bar Fuoco, the owner actually gave us our cornetti served on a saucer (as opposed to handing it to us in a napkin), and asked us to have a seat, then told us he would bring out our cappuccini.  This was so completely foreign to me, and I was actually shocked.  To my surprise, he actually brought the coffee out to us.  I observed him doing this with everyone.  He was bringing out coffee and pastries to customers, cleaning off tables and greeting everyone.  Again, completely foreign when compared to the ‘normal’ coffee culture in Rome.


Did I mention the price?  The price is more than right.  It is only €1,30 for both cappuccino and cornetto.  (At most bars we usually pay €2,00 for the same thing.)  The quality has been consistently good, too.  My chocolate croissant (my favorite) is always fresh and filled with creamy, delicious Nutella.

If you’re looking for a bar with a down home feel, great prices and good service, Bar Fuoco is the place to go.  It’s also convenient to reach since it’s located close to Rome’s Termini Station.


Bar Fuoco Caffe Gima
Via Milazzo, 15
Open 7 days a week

 

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